Free space available in one wall to make a shoe-rack with several layers.

Specification

Wall dimension: 64 cm

Height before electric plug: 95 cm

Optimal depth for shoes: 30 cm

Thickness of common wood: 1.8mm

So, here is the diagram of the project, with 5 levels (can contains up to 15 pairs of shoes)

Prices

Price list:

• Wood + cut: 35.70 + 5 = 40.70
• Varnish: 23.90
• Screw (pack of 100, 4.5 diam x 40mm length): 14.50

Total: 79.1€ (excluding human work, gazoline, etc.)

Varnish References

In case I forgot,

• Brand 3V3
• Type: Varnish
• Finish: Satin Cité
• Color: Chene foncé (the result is much lighter than the image)
• Reference: I218
• Volume: 0.5L (6m2 one layer), water based (was the correct fit, a bit left, but would represent less than one layer)

Steps

1. Measuring and drawing hole location on Inner faces when it applies
2. Drilling the holes
3. Sanding (I did 80 then 180, wanted to be quick)
4. Removing the dust
5. For tablets, I cutted the border to make “vintage effect”. Used a saw from tree branches (not adapted, but OK for that). Then, sanded with 80 to have a smooth finish, then 180.
6. Varnishing upper faces x 2
7. Varnishing lower faces x 2
8. Screwing when dried

It took me one full day: went at 11am to buy the elements, finished at 11pm, with 4 hour breaks (eating + playing with my child) (did not wait fully 2 hours between layers, nor 24h after final layers.)

Tools available: dremel (sanding done by hand, main cut done by the wood shop, tablet cut done by hand).

Process

Raw materials

Preparing location of the holes

Drilling

Varnishing

0 -> 1 layer

1 (left) -> 2 (right) layers

Edging

Cutting with bias the tablets

Sanding

Assembly

Adding the tablets

Before, stack of shoes

Final result

Edges can be improved so the inner edges have the same curvature than the outer ones

Cushion

I have lavender at home, I used that to fill the cushion.

It is important to have an inner layer, so it prevents breaking prematurely

Security stiching

Filling the cushion

Leather border

I wanted to make it using leather because of its strength.

• Base / Bottom is 4mm thickness
• Top is 2.5mm thickness (more flexible)

After the cut

The 3 elements together

Preparing the holes

Before dyeing, we make the holes (so holes have the correct color)

Dyeing

Adding pro resist / resolene / supershene

Stitching

For the protective fabric, an old jean, cut with cisors.

Once the fabric is correctly attached, you can cut around.

Starting stitching the basis.

We add the cushion after doing more than the half, making it easier.

First results

Problem: Uneven border

Solution: cutted the border with a cutter (gently), so both faces fit.

After removal

We cover the border with edge protector (brown, not visible)

Much better

Therefore, everything about code will be know hosted on gaelle-candel.neocities.org

Everything related to craft (leather, woodworking), and some mixed project will stay here.

For my collegues: Ying and Yang cat

Metatron Cube

I do not believe in Magic at all, but the pattern was nice to reproduce

Basis is just an hexagon. It helps to stronger the pattern, as the star is very fragile.

Paint with golden color

Glue both part together

For Christmass, I wanted to make a new keychain for my mother, as the previous was almost dead.

For the shape, I didn’t make a clear pattern (I should have, the finale shape is weird).

Cutting the 4mm leather is hard….

Starting Coloring

Adding the supershene / pro resist

Final Result

Result under artificial light

Under natural light

A few month ago, I bought 2 waterman pen.

I wanted to make a case to protect them appropriately when carrying them in my bag.

Step by step

Cut the leather. I took lambskin, because I have a big skin left from another project (it is cheap, easy to manipulate, but you cannot carve it).

It is easy and fast to do (the most time consumming part is waiting the dye to dry)

I made the pattern very quickly, not that much designed.

Dying by stamping

Stitching

Final result when closed.

I read a lot of books. At some point, space was missing.

Was looking at Ikea bookshelf: for the price, this is very low quality.

I made mine, with real wood, for the same price (if you do not count my time).

Here is the plan:

At Castorama (french shop), you can ask for the cut. 1€ per cut. It simplified my life, as it took them 5 minutes to make all the cuts, with no cleaning.

I put two layers of “lasure”: Lasure was an error. Varnish would have been much more better (even after waiting several weeks for drying, the lasure still stick to paper)

Assembly

I used screw to fix each tablet, as it is easier to build, even if it is visible, and not “woodworking professional looking”.

However, this is efficient to make: prepare the hole in both path, and screw.

Up !

For this project, I needed to plywood sheet of 40x80 cm with 3.7 mm thickness (do not ask me why my vendor do 3.7mm plywood …).

TODO: inspiration ??

Structure

I started with the main structure.

I glued horizontal part first, used a good dictionary to get everything clamped correctly.

When my laser playground was too small to cut large pieces, I did some assembly.

After the four structural parts are done, I glued them together. We need to pay attention to squareness !

Drawers

While the structure is drying, I cutted the drawers part. I saved some wood on the back side (not visible from the outside).

All drawers are identical, only the face has a different number.

Insert the Drawers

With the first batch of drawers, test if they correctly fit in the structure.

Print all the faces in a same batch on the same wood, so the lines goes into the same direction.

Final Result

This is the template, which needed some image editing.

Note: the image is not 100% symmetric. Therefore, I needed to pay attention which is the right part and which is the left part.

I cutted the marquetry wood, and two 10cm diameter pieces of plywood where the pattern is draw on it.

The first trial was not successful (I tried 7cm diameter, which was too small and without border: I broke one ear) The second trial was better:

I started gluing the main parts

And obtained two coaster.

You can see the large glue marks.

I sanded it to remove glue marks. I finished with a 600 grain to get something very soft.

Last, I finished with two layers of varnish.

A lightbox is a box with LEDs on the bottom, and several layers of paper or wood.

Because wood is much more expensive than paper, I searched on amazon for the best price.

I was able to find A4 (almost: 30cm x 20cm) plywood sheet of 2mm thickness.

With one A4 sheet, I can get 2 A5 sheets (20 x 15cm).

I designed this box for inserting A5 sheet + some error margin.

Plans are easy to make.

Assembly

Spacers

To help light diffusion, I putted some separator which are empty layers.

They should perfectly fit in the box.

Totoro Template

I found the layers’ template at L’atelier du bois - Matindetempete

There are many copies available online (for sale). Paper rendering is better than wood. However, Wood will last longuer.

Light

I used an arduino nano (the cheepest you can get !) and a LED strip with 30 LED / meter (RGB addressable LED).

For now, the arduino is still on a bread board. I will update this in the future.

Result